Greek life

Voula

Busy week visiting schools and getting infrastructure (read: wifi, telephone and balcony railings) into the apartment.  We met our landlords, whose parents owned the apartment we’re now renting.  We also did practical things like buy laundry baskets, brooms and mops, nightlights, a coffee maker, etc. Clothes dryers aren’t common so we hang laundry in the sun.  It seems everyone has a utility/laundry porch here, just like we have laundry rooms in the US. We have slick little Miele appliances – a washing machine and the coolest three-rack dishwasher.

School visits were very interesting. We visited 2 Greek private international schools, where English is the primary foreign language (an hour a day of instruction) and 2 other schools, one American and one British, where the language instruction is the inverse.  We’ve decided that Greek school will be the best way to immerse the kids in the culture and learn the language.  Could be a bumpy ride at first … luckily we have Papou to help tutor us. We also bought picture books with letters and sounds at the toy store so we can start learning.  Greek lessons can’t come too soon for me – I mistakenly ordered a coffee “scato” when I should have said “sketo”.  After the bartender recovered from laughing, he explained that sketo is no sugar, while scato is ‘um, shit.’  I assured him that I did not want poop in my coffee, just milk and he told me to come back in an hour for more instruction.  Maybe I’ll stick to beer – they’re just one word orders.

Spent several evenings in the Voula Plateia, or square, which the kids love.  Papou bought them scooters so they can buzz around just like the scores of local kiddos. I don’t know how crashes don’t happen every five minutes with kids on bikes/scooters and waiters with huge trays walking from the restaurants to the outside tables, but I haven’t seen one yet!  The square is busy every night and Fridays and Saturdays are incredibly busy.  The kids’ (and probably mine too) favorite restaurants are the psistariás, or grill restaurants, which serve pork or chicken kalamaki (bamboo skewers) and kebabs (a long skinny spiced meatloaf).  They have other things too – salads, horta (boiled greens with lemon and olive oil – completely wonderful), gyros.  French fries abound.  I convinced myself that the fries must be cooked in olive oil, this is Greece for goodness sake, thereby making them healthy, and then I saw a gallon of corn oil.  Sigh.

Voula and its neighbors – Glyfada, Vouliagmeni, Varkaza – are the closest beaches to Athens so lots of city residents flock to the area on the weekends.  Dance clubs abound and on weekend nights you can hear the beat of the music and see the spotlights.  There are also lots of beach ‘clubs’ where you pay a fee to get in and you get 2 chairs and an umbrella.  We went to the beach in front of a place called Balux, a club/restaurant/bar set up like a house with tons of different rooms.  No beachwear allowed inside; nice clothes only, parakalo.

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A Nobu by any other name is just as sweet

Demetri and I were married 12 years ago today.  The heat has been fierce the last few days  — 39, 41, 43 degrees (98-103 Farenheit!) The ‘sea’ as the Greeks call it, is at the end of our street, so today we grabbed goggles, towels and shoes and walked right down. The water is already so warm that you’re glad for the pockets of cool water that find you every so often.  We swam for a while, found some shade under a tree and then walked home. Cousin Theodoris came to visit for a while, and Papou and Sandy offered to babysit the boys tonight – they walked to the square for dinner and ice cream.  First, however, Papou drove us on our date; very reminiscent of a high school dance.  Demetri and I had a really lovely dinner at Matsuhisa Athens, which lucky for us is not in Athens, but rather in Vouliagmeni, the next town over and about 10 minutes away.  It opened earlier this Spring. The restaurant sits on the water and the cocktail special was a watermelon martini – perfect for a day when you honestly believe you’re melting right where you stand.  We tried a bit of everything including the signature black cod with miso – a recipe that appears in a lot of magazines and on a lot of menus, but if I understood right, was invented by Nobu Matsuhisa himself.

Twelve years has gone by in the bwatermelon martininslink of an eye.  We first came to Greece together in 2006 for a delayed honeymoon. While I imagined all kinds of adventures when we were first engaged and planning our life together, I could have never imagined that we’d be doing something like this.  Demetri is the smartest, funniest, most intentional person I know.  Everything he does is in the name of our family and we all owe this grand (the grandest!) adventure to him.