Greek life

Voula

Busy week visiting schools and getting infrastructure (read: wifi, telephone and balcony railings) into the apartment.  We met our landlords, whose parents owned the apartment we’re now renting.  We also did practical things like buy laundry baskets, brooms and mops, nightlights, a coffee maker, etc. Clothes dryers aren’t common so we hang laundry in the sun.  It seems everyone has a utility/laundry porch here, just like we have laundry rooms in the US. We have slick little Miele appliances – a washing machine and the coolest three-rack dishwasher.

School visits were very interesting. We visited 2 Greek private international schools, where English is the primary foreign language (an hour a day of instruction) and 2 other schools, one American and one British, where the language instruction is the inverse.  We’ve decided that Greek school will be the best way to immerse the kids in the culture and learn the language.  Could be a bumpy ride at first … luckily we have Papou to help tutor us. We also bought picture books with letters and sounds at the toy store so we can start learning.  Greek lessons can’t come too soon for me – I mistakenly ordered a coffee “scato” when I should have said “sketo”.  After the bartender recovered from laughing, he explained that sketo is no sugar, while scato is ‘um, shit.’  I assured him that I did not want poop in my coffee, just milk and he told me to come back in an hour for more instruction.  Maybe I’ll stick to beer – they’re just one word orders.

Spent several evenings in the Voula Plateia, or square, which the kids love.  Papou bought them scooters so they can buzz around just like the scores of local kiddos. I don’t know how crashes don’t happen every five minutes with kids on bikes/scooters and waiters with huge trays walking from the restaurants to the outside tables, but I haven’t seen one yet!  The square is busy every night and Fridays and Saturdays are incredibly busy.  The kids’ (and probably mine too) favorite restaurants are the psistariás, or grill restaurants, which serve pork or chicken kalamaki (bamboo skewers) and kebabs (a long skinny spiced meatloaf).  They have other things too – salads, horta (boiled greens with lemon and olive oil – completely wonderful), gyros.  French fries abound.  I convinced myself that the fries must be cooked in olive oil, this is Greece for goodness sake, thereby making them healthy, and then I saw a gallon of corn oil.  Sigh.

Voula and its neighbors – Glyfada, Vouliagmeni, Varkaza – are the closest beaches to Athens so lots of city residents flock to the area on the weekends.  Dance clubs abound and on weekend nights you can hear the beat of the music and see the spotlights.  There are also lots of beach ‘clubs’ where you pay a fee to get in and you get 2 chairs and an umbrella.  We went to the beach in front of a place called Balux, a club/restaurant/bar set up like a house with tons of different rooms.  No beachwear allowed inside; nice clothes only, parakalo.

Uncategorized

A Nobu by any other name is just as sweet

Demetri and I were married 12 years ago today.  The heat has been fierce the last few days  — 39, 41, 43 degrees (98-103 Farenheit!) The ‘sea’ as the Greeks call it, is at the end of our street, so today we grabbed goggles, towels and shoes and walked right down. The water is already so warm that you’re glad for the pockets of cool water that find you every so often.  We swam for a while, found some shade under a tree and then walked home. Cousin Theodoris came to visit for a while, and Papou and Sandy offered to babysit the boys tonight – they walked to the square for dinner and ice cream.  First, however, Papou drove us on our date; very reminiscent of a high school dance.  Demetri and I had a really lovely dinner at Matsuhisa Athens, which lucky for us is not in Athens, but rather in Vouliagmeni, the next town over and about 10 minutes away.  It opened earlier this Spring. The restaurant sits on the water and the cocktail special was a watermelon martini – perfect for a day when you honestly believe you’re melting right where you stand.  We tried a bit of everything including the signature black cod with miso – a recipe that appears in a lot of magazines and on a lot of menus, but if I understood right, was invented by Nobu Matsuhisa himself.

Twelve years has gone by in the bwatermelon martininslink of an eye.  We first came to Greece together in 2006 for a delayed honeymoon. While I imagined all kinds of adventures when we were first engaged and planning our life together, I could have never imagined that we’d be doing something like this.  Demetri is the smartest, funniest, most intentional person I know.  Everything he does is in the name of our family and we all owe this grand (the grandest!) adventure to him.

 

Travels

Skiathos

After a day to unpack a little and get ourselves in the right time zone, we flew to the lovely island of Skiathos in the Sporades islands.  Skiathos, Skopolos and Allonosos are all ‘green islands,’ not as arid as the Cyclades (e.g., Santorini, Mykonos).  Pine trees and dense shrubbery abound, and walking to the beach smells more like Colorado than the ocean.  Our hotel had a beautiful pool area surrounded by huge oleanders that had been tied together with a metal cable so they looked like trees.  We parked ourselves under them each day.  The boys played with other children from England and Serbia.  It seemed that most of the guests at the hotel were from Great Britain and Russia and we were the only Americans.  Skiathos was one of the first islands to have direct flights from London, so it’s been a popular destination for Brits for many years.  Skiathos town was lovely, with an old Venetian fortress in the harbor that has been converted to an amphitheater and a restaurant/bar.  Opposite the fortress is the harbor town with tons of tavernas and grill restaurants and cute little shops.  The gelato, yogurt and ice cream stores are lined up next to each other.  Though we did not go over, Skopolos’ claim to fame is being the film site for “Mamma Mia” and there are boat cruises to Skopolos to see the places in the movie – and the film plays every night somewhere on the islands.  Peter continues to skip.

Greek life

Welcome to the neighborhood

Meet Papou (Greek for “Grandpa”) – Demetri’s dad, biggest chpapouampion and most recently serving as both Owner’s Rep and GC on our apartment in Voula, a little town on the water south-ish of Athens. Papou’s real name is Panagiotis, and he goes by Peter in the US and Takis in Greece, just like his red-headed grandson.  He and Sandy  (Demetri’s stepmom) have been living here since February 2016. Papou and his sisters spent summers here as kids when the only thing besides the beaches was a hospital.  Now it has a lovely little town square with restaurants, groceries, bakeries, and boutiques.  We live a block from the square, a block from the ocean and a floor below Papou and Sandy! We had been looking nearby (i.e., Glyfada, a bigger city just up the road) so we could be close to them, but being downstairs is like a dream come true. Michael and Peter love having them right upstairs.  Our first morning here they took plates and croissants (all previously purchased by Sandy) upstairs to ask Papou for a side of eggs and to eat on their veranda. Demetri’s aunt had an apartment on the first floor that now belongs to cousins Jim and Melina. It might not be Windsor, Kennebunkport or Hyannis, but doesn’t “Fefes Family Compound” have a nice ring to it?

 

 

Travels

DEN/LHR/ATH

big ben (2)Left Denver 8 pm Saturday 6/24/17.  Arrived London & cleared customs noon Sunday with about 18 hours to enjoy the city. Our big bags were checked through to Greece so we just have backpacks to carry. London has a nifty 15 minute express train from Heathrow to Paddington Station and we booked a hotel across from the train station. We got to our room, closed the curtains and slept very hard – I’m talking drool on pillows hard — for 2 hours, then pulled ourselves out of bed and took the subway over to Westminster so Peter could see Big Ben in person.  We walked along Westminster Abbey and Parliament, to the Thames River and then boarded a double decker bus for St. Paul’s Cathedral.  The weather was lovely today – not hot, not cold – perfect for being tourists.  And Peter learned to skip – and like with everything else he does, he needs a running start to get going.  He remains ecstatic.

Left London 9 am Monday; arrived Athens 2ish.  Papou met us at the airport.  We loaded all the bags into his tiny car and the 4 of us into a taxi. Greek cars are not built to have 30 inch suitcases in the trunk. Knowing this, and hoping to do a little travel on our way to Athens, we boxed up clothing and other items to ship to ourselves in advance so as not to have giant suitcases.  However, at the post office a few weeks ago, with said items all boxed up, we learned that Greece does not allow used clothes to be shipped into the country without a certificate from the point of origin that the clothing has been disinfected. I tried to explain that these boxes weren’t used clothes, they were just our clothes.  With a sympathetic nod, the postal clerk reminded me that these were not his rules.  Suitcases it is.  And as long as they are less than 50 lbs, we get 8 of them checked for free.  We only have 6, not including our carryon backpacks. The bags include stuffed animals, a scanner for work purposes, 2 laptops, 3 ipads, 2nd grade math books and our clothes.  Pretty good on the packing eh?